Shimuka

Preparation

This photo shows the initial setup and preparation for building this model.  The pieces have not yet been primed, but they have been sanded and some holes and flaws have been filled.
This is a similar picture to the one above.  Most pieces have been primed and base coated with at least two coats of paint of the appropriate color.

This is a picture of the main body piece, masked for painting the dark green trim of the uniform.  The masking was probably a silly thing to do because I had not yet painted the body with its final white color.  However, I was planning on putting on a special pearlescent white paint for the dress and I wanted to apply this last, after all other areas were done.

This is the body after it has been completely painted.  The flesh color was sprayed on by hand and then the neck area and green wrist bands were masked off before spraying the base white coat.

I used a white pearlescent paint from Daler-Rowney.   This paint provides a wonderfully deep pearl texture that has a beautiful sheen and color.  Three coats were sprayed to get a full and proper coverage.

For the bottom half of the model, this picture shows the main leg piece masked off for painting the skating pants.  A flat black paint was used, even though this picture seems to indicate otherwise.  The picture was taken while the paint was still wet which is why it looks shiny. 

These are the skate pants after the paint is dry.  You can see that a small touch-up is required along the panty line so that the curve becomes smooth and even. 

This is one of the boots, masked off for painting the skate.  A gloss black paint was applied.  I covered most of the boot with paper towel, and used clear plastic wrap to make the precise mask lines.

Here is one of the boots after it is finished.  The two white bands on the back and front of the boot were painted by hand.  There were small castings that showed where the bands were to be painted, which helped.  The trick for obtaining accurate lines is to paint them in multiple coats.  The first coat just applies color and you do not care if the lines are exactly on edge.  The second and third coats focus on making nice straight edges.  Sometimes the brush will slip.  That's OK, because you can simply use the brush to cover up the flaw by drawing a line with the base color.

In this picture you can see where the white line is too thick on the right side where it turns to come down the front.  This was easily fixed by painting a thin bead of green color along the edge of the sailor top.

 

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