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This photo shows the
initial setup and preparation for building this model. The
pieces have not yet been primed, but they have been sanded and
some holes and flaws have been filled. |
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This is a similar
picture to the one above. Most pieces have been primed and
base coated with at least two coats of paint of the appropriate
color. |
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This is a picture of
the main body piece, masked for painting the dark green trim of
the uniform. The masking was probably a silly thing to do because I had not yet painted the body with its final
white color. However, I was planning on putting on a special
pearlescent white paint for the dress and I wanted to apply this
last, after all other areas were done.
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This is the body after
it has been completely painted. The flesh color was sprayed
on by hand and then the neck area and green wrist bands were
masked off before spraying the base white coat.
I used a white pearlescent paint
from Daler-Rowney. This paint provides a wonderfully
deep pearl texture that has a beautiful sheen and color.
Three coats were sprayed to get a full and proper coverage.
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For the bottom half of the model, this picture shows the
main leg piece masked off for painting the skating pants. A
flat black paint was used, even though this picture seems to
indicate otherwise. The picture was taken while the paint
was still wet which is why it looks shiny.
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These are the skate
pants after the paint is dry. You can see that a small
touch-up is required along the panty line so that the curve
becomes smooth and even.
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This is one of the
boots, masked off for painting the skate. A gloss black
paint was applied. I covered most of the boot with paper
towel, and used clear plastic wrap to make the precise mask lines.
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Here is one of the boots after it is
finished. The two white bands on the back and front of the boot were
painted by hand. There were small castings that showed where the bands
were to be painted, which helped. The trick for obtaining accurate lines
is to paint them in multiple coats. The first coat just applies color
and you do not care if the lines are exactly on edge. The second and
third coats focus on making nice straight edges. Sometimes the brush
will slip. That's OK, because you can simply use the brush to cover up the
flaw by drawing a line with the base color. |
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In this
picture you can see where the white line is too thick on the right
side where it turns to come down the front. This was easily fixed
by painting a thin bead of green color along the edge of the
sailor top.
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